Vietnam!
Now
is one of the best times to visit Vietnam, with the nation’s
economic and political recovery from war. The restoration of historical
sites and the rapid building of facilities to accommodate tourists has
led to a growing economy. And to top it off, Vietnam is a great bargain.
But more than that, Vietnam beckons with lush terrain, gorgeous beaches,
hill-tribe cultures, and dramatic imperial buildings. It is a land of
drama, both geographical, and historical, resulting in a rich and compelling
experience any traveler will enjoy.
History
The earliest record of inhabitation in Vietnam dates
back to the year 111 B.C.E. when the northern area of the country was
conquered by the Chinese who ruled for over a thousand years. Over the
next 700 years, Vietnam consisted of many small and competing kingdoms
until the French colonized the country in 1887 and controlled the country’s
emperors. In the year 1954, Communist and Nationalist groups called the
Viet Minh forced the French out, dividing the country
along the 17th parallel. The Northern region assumed Communist leadership,
while the South became Nationalist. Relations were further inflamed when
the South declared political independence and the North united under Communist
leader Ho Chi Minh.
In 1963, Northern Vietnamese troops crossed the
border into the South, setting the stage for the Vietnam War.
The South was unable to defend itself without substantial foreign support
from the U.S. and the “Free World Military Forces” which consisted
of Australia, New Zealand, South Korea, Thailand, and the Philippines.
The war ended with the capture of Saigon by the North.
Geography
Vietnam
can be divided into 4 distinct regions. The Northeast consists of the
Red River delta which is low and flat. The border of
China, in the northwest, is rugged and mountainous where the central region
is hilly. The Mekong delta in the south is marked with
rivers and canals, consisting of tropical lowlands.
Weather
The
best months to see Vietnam are October through December. Temperatures
are mild with cool nights and tend to be cooler in the northern regions.
May-September is hot and humid with monsoon season in the south. January
through March is foggy and drizzly in the north. Be aware that the mountains
can get very cold in winter, with occasional snowfall at higher elevations.
Be sure to take a sweater for cooler nights, but
don’t bother packing a heavy raincoat. For around US $0.15, you
can get a lightweight one in the country. If you are taking film, ask
to have your film hand-checked at the airport since the ancient X-ray
machines can do damage.
Health Care
Malaria is of concern in Vietnam so inquire about malaria suppressants
and take along insect repellent. Some drug-resistant malaria is present
in all rural areas except for the Red River delta. Also
reported in rural areas are dengue fever, plague, cholera, typhoid, hepatitis
and trypansosmiasis. Rabies is present in the country, so seek medical
attention immediately if you are bitten by any animal, whether domestic
or wild. Disinfect small wounds and cover with a bandage to avoid infection.
Be sure to pack plenty of sunscreen and a hat.
Sanitary conditions are not up to western standards in Vietnam. Luxury
restaurants in major hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi
Minh City are the exception as well as pre-packaged foods. Stick
with hot and freshly cooked food, peel fresh fruits and vegetables, and
make sure meat is cooked thoroughly. Avoid local dairy products and the
tap water.
For more information, contact your country's health
advisory agency.
U.S. CDC International Travel Information—Phone 877-394-8747.
http://www.cdc.gov/travel/.
Safety
Petty theft is present in major cities and consists
mainly of pickpocketing and purse snatching. There are still a few land
mines in the central area of Vietnam, so don’t stray from main paths
without first checking with local authorities.
Canadian Travel Advisory Line—Phone 613-944-6788.
Toll-free (in Canada) 800-267-6788. http://www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca.
U.S. Department of State, Overseas Citizens Services—Phone
202-647-5225. http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html
Etiquette
• Always remove your shoes before entering Buddhist pagodas and
never let the soles of your feet face any sacred monument, especially
a statue of Buddha.
• When walking through Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum
in Hanoi, keep your arms straight at your sides. Be aware
that if they’re behind your back, or if your elbows are bent, soldiers
will straighten them for you.
• Don’t bring religious or political literature into the country.
• Crossing your fingers as a sign for good luck is considered obscene
to the Vietnamese.
• Do not take photos of military or governmental
locations, harbors or airports.
• Be aware that if a young lady offers you a lift on the back of
her motorscooter, she may be a prostitute.
• Avoid referring to the war as the Vietnam War, since the Vietnamese
know it as the "American War."
Shopping
Some items to keep an eye out for include hill tribe needlework and jewelry,
marble boxes, lacquerware, water pipes, Chinese antiques, coconut-husk
masks, water puppets, beaded bags, kimonos, handcrafts, baskets, silver
bracelets, wood carvings, and papier-mache. Vietnam War-era items are
also of interest. Hoi An is noted for its tailors who
can reproduce garments from magazines.
Sometimes you may find that you get better deals when paying with US currency.
Avoid tortoiseshell and ivory souvenirs as they will not be allowed back
to the U.S. or Canada. Avoid coral souvenirs as well since their production
is destroying the country’s reefs. The purchase of antiques has
posed a problems for some travelers since the Hanoi government
forbids their export. If the item looks old, be sure to get a letter from
the seller stating that it is not valuable, and never spend more than
you’re willing to lose to customs officials.
Shopping Hours
Monday-Sunday 8 am-7 pm.
Currency Exchange
ATMs are found throughout Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. In addition, great
rates can be obtained at gold stores along Hang Gai Street in Hanoi. Travelers’
checks are only accepted at banks. Credit cards are accepted widely.
Banking Hours
Monday-Saturday 7:30 am-4:30 pm.
Dining
Somewhere between Thai and Chinese cuisine is how one might describe
Vietnamese cuisine. Overall the food is excellent, and spicy!
Cuisine in Vietnam varies from region to region. Rice pancake dishes are
popular in the south and noodle dishes (pho) in the north. Cities
even have their specialties.
Lau is a tasty hotpot cooked at your table that shouldn’t
be missed. Cafe soh-da is sweetened condensed milk and strong
coffee. Be sure to try dragonfruit. It grows on a cactus plant
and has tasty and delicious insides. It can only be found in Vietnam.
A hand-me-down from the French colonialists is their excellent coffee
and baguettes!
Food stalls in any city are relatively safe, just be sure to witness the
fresh preparation of the food.
Tipping
Tipping is more common in the southern part of the country and is usually
not necessary in inexpensive restaurants. More expensive restaurants will
add on a 5% service charge to the bill. Most small tips are greatly appreciated.
Destinations
Cu Chi
The Cu Chi tunnels are an extensive underground system
of tunnels originally used by the Viet Cong as tactical
quarters. They housed storage rooms and even an underground surgical center.
Only a small part of the vast 125 mile system running under U.S. military
bases was discovered during the war since most entrances were very well
disguised. The tunnels open to visitors include the Ben Dinh tunnels
which were used during the war, and the Ben Duoc tunnels
which are "reconstructions" built for tourism.
Even better tunnels can be found at Vinh Moc, northwest
of Hue near the former Demilitarized Zone. If you plan
a visit, be sure to wear long pants to avoid beating up your knees when
crawling through the tunnels. 20 mi/30 km northwest of Ho Chi Minh
City.
Da
Nang
Da Nang, a coastal city, was once home to a huge U.S.
air base. Of note in the city is the Cham Museum, home
to collections of Cham civilization sculpture which date from the 7th
to the 15th centuries. For those interested in more recent history,
trips can be made to the Ho Chi Minh Trail, which was
once the main Communist supply route from the North. North of town is
the famous U.S. soldier vacation spot, China Beach. For
a nice day trip, visit the Marble Mountains and Ta
Van pass (the scenic climate boundary between the north and south
halves of the country). 380 mi/610 km southeast of Hanoi.
Halong
Bay
Halong Bay is a dramatic landscape of thousands of limestone
peaks rising out of the South China Sea, and part of
it has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Cruise trips are the
best way to explore this region. The views of sunset and sunrise are unlike
any other in the world! Adjacent to Halong Bay is Cat Ba National
Park which offers up exotic wildlife, spelunking, and snorkeling
over beautiful reefs. The park includes part of Cat Ba Island
and surrounding waters. 75 mi/120 km southeast
of Hanoi.
Hanoi
Hanoi is Vietnam's capital lakeside city with a population of
just over 3 million. It is a city with depth and variety leaving the visitor
with many different impressions, most of which can be described as uniquely
charming.
The city has its share of tree-lined boulevards, winding lanes along French
colonial buildings, and inspirational monuments. If you’re looking
for the heart of the city, start your journey in the Old Quarter,
but beware that its maze-like personality will lead you in unexpected
directions down narrow streets, past colorful markets and souvenir shops.
North and west of the lake is the more modern area of the city that can
be reached by cyclo or taxi. It is home to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum,
a museum dedicated to his life, and his well-preserved home built upon
stilts.
Closeby there are numerous official buildings and museums worth visiting,
including the Reunification Palace which was the former
presidential palace of the Southern government; the Fine Arts
Museum; the restored Opera House; the Temple
of Literature which dates to the 11th century, and the Hoa
Lo Prison which was originally built by the French to detain
dissidents.
Located in central Hanoi is the Ngoc Son Temple.
To reach it, cross a narrow bridge from Hoan Kiem Lake
which leads to the temple. The shrine enjoys a peaceful location on a
small island in a lake and happens to be one of the most impressive Buddhist
temples in the country.
If you are planning a trip to the central highlands
of Vietnam, pay a visit to the Ethnology Museum. The
museum will introduce you to the many hill tribes of the area. Another
must-see is a nightly water puppet performance at the Thang Long
Water Puppet Theatre. It is an experience unique to the country
and will delight children and adults alike. 700 mi/1,120 km north
of Ho Chi Minh City.
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
As a city with 3.5 million people, Ho Chi Minh City was
once known as Saigon, and the name was most spitefully
changed to that of the enemy by government officials. It still remains
as the economic heart of the country and is growing to accommodate tourism
daily.
Luckily, the city’s most impressive old landmarks stood their ground
through the war, including The Notre Dame Cathedral,
the Rex Hotel, the French-built Hotel de Ville
and blocks of colonial houses. Worth visiting are the city’s interesting
pagodas and temples. Try to make a trip to Giac Lam Pagoda
where the portraits of deceased monks are displayed above the funeral
tablets. For another interesting and visual experience, try the Emperor
of Jade Pagoda which is filled with papier-mache statues and
gilded figures of Buddhist and Taoist divinities.
Another unique and interesting experience is Saigon’s markets, Cho
Binh, Cho Ben Thanh, and Cholon's Ben Tay market.
There is also a 24-hour vegetable market on Nguyen Trai Street
and an all-night Chuong Duong fish market. For great
souvenirs and antiques, head to Dong Khoi Street.
Saigon has its share of War memorials, some deeply moving,
if not disturbing. The War Remnants Museum displays military
equipment as well as evidence which supports allegations of atrocities
committed by communism’s enemies in the 1960s and 1970s.
The museum is not for the faint of heart.
Siagon is a great base for exploration of the Cu Chi tunnels,
Tay Ninh, and the Vung Tau Peninsula (once called
the "Saigon Riviera"). 700 mi/1,120 km
south of Hanoi.
Hoi
An
Hoi An just might be one of the highlights of your trip
to Vietnam. It was once a major port town until it was replaced by Da
Nang. With traditional Vietnamese architecture, wondrous temples
and colorful markets, it has a small-town feel. Hoi An has excellent cuisine,
and if possible, try to sample it along the waterfront. The Hoi
An Traditional Performance House has nightly musical shows worth
attending.
Most of the city’s main sites are available for touring with a special
ticket that enables you to choose five sites to tour. Among the
choices are the Tan Ky house which is an exquisite merchant
house, the Kwangdung Assembly Hall, the Japanese covered
bridge, and the Historical Museum which has changed very
little over the centuries. 400 mi/640 km southeast of Hanoi.
Hue
Hue (pronounced h’WAY) was the capital of the country
during Nguyen dynasty in the 19th century. It suffered dramatic damage
during the Tet offensive of the war in 1968 when the counteroffensive
reclaimed the town. Its structures in the centuries-old Citadel
including the emperors’ private residence were destroyed. Only a
small portion of the royal buildings stand to this day, and what is left
is currently undergoing restoration.
Hue is divided by the Perfume River, with its southern
banks known as "Valley of the Kings" for housing the
tombs of the Nguyen emperors. Tourists are able to reach them via bicycle
or boat. Additional tombs shouldn’t be missed: Tu Duc,
known for the longest-reigning emperor, 1847-1883); Minh Mang;
and the smaller, but ostentatious Khai Dinh.
Many have heard of dramatic protests of the Vietnam war, but none are
more dramatic than the monk who lit himself on fire in protest. His picture
is housed in the Thien Mu Pagoda, located along the river
2 mi/3 km west of the Citadel. The structure is quite lovely with beautiful
serene gardens. 340 mi/545 km southeast of Hanoi.
Mekong Delta
The Mekong Delta is situated on the doorstep of Ho
Chi Minh City with gorgeous green rice fields and fruit orchards
marking the landscape. This tropical site is very conducive to touring
via boat. Interestingly, the Mekong Delta is home to some nontraditional
religions, including a mixture of Buddhism and Christianity. If your interest
is piqued, be sure to check out the somewhat run-down Temple of
the Coconut Monk on an island close to Mytho.
Cruise to island fruit orchards and stop for tea near Vinh Long
or visit the floating market of Phung Hiep at Cantho,
the converging of seven rivers. Mytho is 45 mi/70 km southwest of
Ho Chi Minh City; Vinh Long is another 45 mi/70 km southwest of Mytho;
from there it's 20 mi/30 km to Cantho.
